I didn't think that wave was going to offer a ton, ... But the wave just held form, and I was able to get a lot out of it.

Not to sound too deep or weird, but I think that the times when you really appreciate surfing are the times you're really sort of becoming one with nature. Surfing's as raw of a sport as it gets.

I've always thought surfing is a reflection of who you are.

Surfing is my religion, if I have one.

I didn't think that wave was going to offer a ton, ... But the wave just held form, and I was able to get a lot out of it.

I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it's almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.

Maintaining marriage seems to be tougher than fatherhood: apparently its the most difficult thing in the world.