Make sure your worst enemy doesn't live between your two ears.
In Hawaii, the environment is fabulous. In Malibu, the people are fabulous. Our family unity is tight, and we have the Pacific Ocean outside our door in both places, so there is consistency.
California has more distractions, more activities for the kids, more driving.
Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind.
I don't want to not live because of my fear of what could happen.
When I fly to Chile to surf or go snowboarding in Russia or some other adventure, I try to include the family when I can and go see friends along the way.