I need a big wave to really excel. The smaller stuff is a bit like...ballet for me.

There needs to be a reason to go, so you go deeper into whatever place you're visiting to find those unforgettable experiences.

I don't want to not live because of my fear of what could happen.

Make sure your worst enemy doesn't live between your two ears.

Most men need their wives to need them, and I've seen that lead to their downfall

Normally, people who are frustrated out in the water are frustrated on land. They brought their frustration with them. If you go to a beach where there are a hundred guys out, and you paddle out looking to ride waves alone, you're setting yourself up.

In Hawaii, the environment is fabulous. In Malibu, the people are fabulous. Our family unity is tight, and we have the Pacific Ocean outside our door in both places, so there is consistency.