I do need to travel with a purpose, though. I can't go somewhere to just hang out with friends.

If you just get out of your own way... It is amazing what will come to you.

Wiping out is an underappreciated skill.

When you make a mistake, the ocean gives you an instant reminder. You get punished. If golf clubs could shock you every time you hit the ball wrong, we'd probably learn how to play golf pretty well.

There needs to be a reason to go, so you go deeper into whatever place you're visiting to find those unforgettable experiences.

For those searching for something more than just the norm. We lay it all down, including what others call sanity, for just a few moments on waves larger than life. We do this because we know there is still something greater than all of us. Something that inspires us spiritually. We start going down hill, when we stop taking risks.

When I fly to Chile to surf or go snowboarding in Russia or some other adventure, I try to include the family when I can and go see friends along the way.