I do need to travel with a purpose, though. I can't go somewhere to just hang out with friends.

All training does is get us back what we lost when we stopped having to hunt down our food. Our bodies are built for it already.

I need a big wave to really excel. The smaller stuff is a bit like...ballet for me.

If you can look at one of these waves and you don't believe that there's something greater than we are, then you've got some serious analyzing to do and you should go sit under a tree for a very long time.

People always ask me when they see me working out, "What are you training for?" The answer is I'm training for life.

For those searching for something more than just the norm. We lay it all down, including what others call sanity, for just a few moments on waves larger than life. We do this because we know there is still something greater than all of us. Something that inspires us spiritually. We start going down hill, when we stop taking risks.

If you just get out of your own way... It is amazing what will come to you.