What I'm saying so badly is we're bred now to believe we're in control and should be in control.

It’s how I fill the time when nothing’s happening. Thinking too much, flirting with melancholy.

The ocean is a supreme metaphor for change. I expect the unexpected but am never fully prepared.

If we love the sea as much as we claim to we'll do everything we possibly can to keep it healthy. Otherwise we might as well take up golf.

Humour is God's special gift to humanity. Handy, because it turns out to be necessary.

Surfing is one of the most joyful pursuits a human can take up. But there's no joy in a deadzone. If you've ever surfed in turds and medical waste you don't want to repeat the experience.

I love the sea but it does not love me. The sea is like a desert in that it is quite rightly feared. The sea and the desert are both hungry, they have things to be getting on with so you do not go into them lightly.