Health is survival. But survival with style and class.

There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.

Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing.

Wisdom comes from intent, experience, and finding courage.

I think it is easy to be a doctor. There are a hell of a lot more doctors than there are guys riding big Pipeline.

Once I learned to swim, I learned that there were waves.

Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.