Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing.
Dorian "Doc" PaskowitzThe reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.
Dorian "Doc" PaskowitzThe real enemy is not fat but us. We are the misusers; we are the greedy ones. If we have no better sense than to purposefully destroy ourselves, it is no wonder that nature punishes us with vile diseases and calls in our maker long before their time. Nature remembers every extra bite of cherry pie, T-bone steak, fried chicken, pizza.
Dorian "Doc" PaskowitzI don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.
Dorian "Doc" PaskowitzA real man is capable of controlling himself before he controls his children.
Dorian "Doc" PaskowitzDeath is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. We die when we stop living.
Dorian "Doc" PaskowitzBig wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.
Dorian "Doc" PaskowitzMy favorite toy or game has been the ocean. My real passion is for saltwater.
Dorian "Doc" PaskowitzThere is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.
Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz