The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.
Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. We die when we stop living.
Once I learned to swim, I learned that there were waves.
Health is survival. But survival with style and class.
When I kept surfing, surfing kept me.
Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.