The real enemy is not fat but us. We are the misusers; we are the greedy ones. If we have no better sense than to purposefully destroy ourselves, it is no wonder that nature punishes us with vile diseases and calls in our maker long before their time. Nature remembers every extra bite of cherry pie, T-bone steak, fried chicken, pizza.

My favorite toy or game has been the ocean. My real passion is for saltwater.

Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. We die when we stop living.

I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.

I'm one of the few dumb Jewish doctors.

There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.

I think it is easy to be a doctor. There are a hell of a lot more doctors than there are guys riding big Pipeline.