When I kept surfing, surfing kept me.
Love really makes the world go round, but sex makes love go round.
Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.
The greatest thing in life is health.
The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.
Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. We die when we stop living.