Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing.

Once I learned to swim, I learned that there were waves.

Wisdom comes from intent, experience, and finding courage.

The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.

There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.

I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.

Love really makes the world go round, but sex makes love go round.