When I kept surfing, surfing kept me.
Love really makes the world go round, but sex makes love go round.
I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.
God loves happy people.
The greatest thing in life is health.
Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. We die when we stop living.