Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. We die when we stop living.

Once I learned to swim, I learned that there were waves.

Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.

Health begets Spirit.

There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.

Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.

My favorite toy or game has been the ocean. My real passion is for saltwater.