Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. We die when we stop living.

I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.

Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.

My favorite toy or game has been the ocean. My real passion is for saltwater.

Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing.

Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. We die when we stop living.

Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.