Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing.
It's easier to die when you have lived than it is to die when you haven't.
The greatest thing in life is health.
The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.
Love really makes the world go round, but sex makes love go round.
When I kept surfing, surfing kept me.