It's easier to die when you have lived than it is to die when you haven't.

When I kept surfing, surfing kept me.

Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing.

Health is survival. But survival with style and class.

God loves happy people.

Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.

I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.