The balance and patience factors are much more critical in surfing than they are in snowboarding ... if you're out surfing serious waves and you wipe out, you don't land on soft snow. It's usually either very sharp coral, or you get raked across the beach gravel and sand while you're tumbling underwater.
Frederick LenzConsistency is nice, I think, personally. I like to be consistently happy. I like to be consistently more aware and more conscious of the truth.
Frederick LenzYou have but a short time to live in this world. As you age, you will experience the pains of aging. If your hopes and joys rest upon the body, then you will suffer greatly.
Frederick Lenz