For those searching for something more than just the norm. We lay it all down, including what others call sanity, for just a few moments on waves larger than life. We do this because we know there is still something greater than all of us. Something that inspires us spiritually. We start going down hill, when we stop taking risks.

When I fly to Chile to surf or go snowboarding in Russia or some other adventure, I try to include the family when I can and go see friends along the way.

Make sure your worst enemy doesn't live between your two ears.

All training does is get us back what we lost when we stopped having to hunt down our food. Our bodies are built for it already.

We are our own worst inhibitors

I need a big wave to really excel. The smaller stuff is a bit like...ballet for me.

Wiping out is an underappreciated skill.