For those searching for something more than just the norm. We lay it all down, including what others call sanity, for just a few moments on waves larger than life. We do this because we know there is still something greater than all of us. Something that inspires us spiritually. We start going down hill, when we stop taking risks.

Travel's the great educator, especially for the girls. You can't put a value on it.

The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean.

Fortunately, I was given an incredible foundation from my independent mother. She showed me what was possible from a strong, loving woman.

Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind.

When I fly to Chile to surf or go snowboarding in Russia or some other adventure, I try to include the family when I can and go see friends along the way.

The idea is to become an old wizard; to live a long and fruitful life and have family and be healthy and enjoy the ride. And speaking of the ride, why not let it rip, at least a little bit? Everyone I know who's really stoked about getting out of bed in the morning does that to some extent.