Wiping out is an underappreciated skill.
I need a big wave to really excel. The smaller stuff is a bit like...ballet for me.
Make sure your worst enemy doesn't live between your two ears.
The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean.
When you don't use sugar in your diet, all of the sudden fruits are really sweet. Honey is really sweet. Your taste buds change. I'm not psycho never have anything sweet, because that takes too much energy. The stress on your body just isn't worth it.
I know that if I scare myself once a day, I'm a better person.