The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean.

I do need to travel with a purpose, though. I can't go somewhere to just hang out with friends.

Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind.

Travel's the great educator, especially for the girls. You can't put a value on it.

Normally, people who are frustrated out in the water are frustrated on land. They brought their frustration with them. If you go to a beach where there are a hundred guys out, and you paddle out looking to ride waves alone, you're setting yourself up.

The idea is to become an old wizard; to live a long and fruitful life and have family and be healthy and enjoy the ride. And speaking of the ride, why not let it rip, at least a little bit? Everyone I know who's really stoked about getting out of bed in the morning does that to some extent.

Make sure your worst enemy doesn't live between your two ears.