We're all equal before a wave.
I know that if I scare myself once a day, I'm a better person.
If you just get out of your own way... It is amazing what will come to you.
Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind.
You have to decide what level you want to participate in your children's lives. The more you do, the better your relationship is going to be. You have to listen to your instincts. You know when it's time to lay down the law.
I'm the dad, the cleanup guy. I deal with the bigger messes. But I also provide more adventures and excitement. It works out.