In Hawaii, the environment is fabulous. In Malibu, the people are fabulous. Our family unity is tight, and we have the Pacific Ocean outside our door in both places, so there is consistency.

Normally, people who are frustrated out in the water are frustrated on land. They brought their frustration with them. If you go to a beach where there are a hundred guys out, and you paddle out looking to ride waves alone, you're setting yourself up.

I know that if I scare myself once a day, I'm a better person.

Life with three daughters can be nerve-wracking, but it's amazing to be loved by so many different women.

The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean.

I don't want to not live because of my fear of what could happen.

For those searching for something more than just the norm. We lay it all down, including what others call sanity, for just a few moments on waves larger than life. We do this because we know there is still something greater than all of us. Something that inspires us spiritually. We start going down hill, when we stop taking risks.