California has more distractions, more activities for the kids, more driving.

I'm the dad, the cleanup guy. I deal with the bigger messes. But I also provide more adventures and excitement. It works out.

I need a big wave to really excel. The smaller stuff is a bit like...ballet for me.

The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean.

If you can look at one of these waves and you don't believe that there's something greater than we are, then you've got some serious analyzing to do and you should go sit under a tree for a very long time.

When you don't use sugar in your diet, all of the sudden fruits are really sweet. Honey is really sweet. Your taste buds change. I'm not psycho never have anything sweet, because that takes too much energy. The stress on your body just isn't worth it.

Make sure your worst enemy doesn't live between your two ears.