Normally, people who are frustrated out in the water are frustrated on land. They brought their frustration with them. If you go to a beach where there are a hundred guys out, and you paddle out looking to ride waves alone, you're setting yourself up.

The idea is to become an old wizard; to live a long and fruitful life and have family and be healthy and enjoy the ride. And speaking of the ride, why not let it rip, at least a little bit? Everyone I know who's really stoked about getting out of bed in the morning does that to some extent.

When I fly to Chile to surf or go snowboarding in Russia or some other adventure, I try to include the family when I can and go see friends along the way.

People always ask me when they see me working out, "What are you training for?" The answer is I'm training for life.

We're all equal before a wave.

Make sure your worst enemy doesn't live between your two ears.

You have to decide what level you want to participate in your children's lives. The more you do, the better your relationship is going to be. You have to listen to your instincts. You know when it's time to lay down the law.