Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind.
I need a big wave to really excel. The smaller stuff is a bit like...ballet for me.
California has more distractions, more activities for the kids, more driving.
If you just get out of your own way... It is amazing what will come to you.
We're all equal before a wave.
I know that if I scare myself once a day, I'm a better person.