Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind.
I do need to travel with a purpose, though. I can't go somewhere to just hang out with friends.
I'm the dad, the cleanup guy. I deal with the bigger messes. But I also provide more adventures and excitement. It works out.
Wiping out is an underappreciated skill.
We're all equal before a wave.
When you make a mistake, the ocean gives you an instant reminder. You get punished. If golf clubs could shock you every time you hit the ball wrong, we'd probably learn how to play golf pretty well.