Fortunately, I was given an incredible foundation from my independent mother. She showed me what was possible from a strong, loving woman.

All training does is get us back what we lost when we stopped having to hunt down our food. Our bodies are built for it already.

Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind.

I do need to travel with a purpose, though. I can't go somewhere to just hang out with friends.

If you just get out of your own way... It is amazing what will come to you.

In Hawaii, the environment is fabulous. In Malibu, the people are fabulous. Our family unity is tight, and we have the Pacific Ocean outside our door in both places, so there is consistency.

Do not be afraid of death. Be afraid of the half-lived life!