I do need to travel with a purpose, though. I can't go somewhere to just hang out with friends.
Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind.
I need a big wave to really excel. The smaller stuff is a bit like...ballet for me.
When you make a mistake, the ocean gives you an instant reminder. You get punished. If golf clubs could shock you every time you hit the ball wrong, we'd probably learn how to play golf pretty well.
California has more distractions, more activities for the kids, more driving.
There needs to be a reason to go, so you go deeper into whatever place you're visiting to find those unforgettable experiences.