Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind.

In Hawaii, the environment is fabulous. In Malibu, the people are fabulous. Our family unity is tight, and we have the Pacific Ocean outside our door in both places, so there is consistency.

If you just get out of your own way... It is amazing what will come to you.

Normally, people who are frustrated out in the water are frustrated on land. They brought their frustration with them. If you go to a beach where there are a hundred guys out, and you paddle out looking to ride waves alone, you're setting yourself up.

Most men need their wives to need them, and I've seen that lead to their downfall

Travel's the great educator, especially for the girls. You can't put a value on it.

Fortunately, I was given an incredible foundation from my independent mother. She showed me what was possible from a strong, loving woman.