Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind.

If you just get out of your own way... It is amazing what will come to you.

The idea is to become an old wizard; to live a long and fruitful life and have family and be healthy and enjoy the ride. And speaking of the ride, why not let it rip, at least a little bit? Everyone I know who's really stoked about getting out of bed in the morning does that to some extent.

Most men need their wives to need them, and I've seen that lead to their downfall

Fortunately, I was given an incredible foundation from my independent mother. She showed me what was possible from a strong, loving woman.

When I fly to Chile to surf or go snowboarding in Russia or some other adventure, I try to include the family when I can and go see friends along the way.

Life with three daughters can be nerve-wracking, but it's amazing to be loved by so many different women.