Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind.
California has more distractions, more activities for the kids, more driving.
The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean.
If you just get out of your own way... It is amazing what will come to you.
Fortunately, I was given an incredible foundation from my independent mother. She showed me what was possible from a strong, loving woman.
When you don't use sugar in your diet, all of the sudden fruits are really sweet. Honey is really sweet. Your taste buds change. I'm not psycho never have anything sweet, because that takes too much energy. The stress on your body just isn't worth it.