Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind.

We are our own worst inhibitors

I need a big wave to really excel. The smaller stuff is a bit like...ballet for me.

When you don't use sugar in your diet, all of the sudden fruits are really sweet. Honey is really sweet. Your taste buds change. I'm not psycho never have anything sweet, because that takes too much energy. The stress on your body just isn't worth it.

When I fly to Chile to surf or go snowboarding in Russia or some other adventure, I try to include the family when I can and go see friends along the way.

People always ask me when they see me working out, "What are you training for?" The answer is I'm training for life.

I'm the dad, the cleanup guy. I deal with the bigger messes. But I also provide more adventures and excitement. It works out.