The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.

There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.

Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing.

Once I learned to swim, I learned that there were waves.

A real man is capable of controlling himself before he controls his children.

The real enemy is not fat but us. We are the misusers; we are the greedy ones. If we have no better sense than to purposefully destroy ourselves, it is no wonder that nature punishes us with vile diseases and calls in our maker long before their time. Nature remembers every extra bite of cherry pie, T-bone steak, fried chicken, pizza.

The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.