The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.

Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing.

I think it is easy to be a doctor. There are a hell of a lot more doctors than there are guys riding big Pipeline.

A real man is capable of controlling himself before he controls his children.

The real enemy is not fat but us. We are the misusers; we are the greedy ones. If we have no better sense than to purposefully destroy ourselves, it is no wonder that nature punishes us with vile diseases and calls in our maker long before their time. Nature remembers every extra bite of cherry pie, T-bone steak, fried chicken, pizza.

Wisdom comes from intent, experience, and finding courage.

Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.