My favorite toy or game has been the ocean. My real passion is for saltwater.

Health begets Spirit.

The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.

Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.

Wisdom comes from intent, experience, and finding courage.

Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. We die when we stop living.

Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing.