There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.

Wisdom comes from intent, experience, and finding courage.

God loves happy people.

The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.

When I kept surfing, surfing kept me.

A real man is capable of controlling himself before he controls his children.

The real enemy is not fat but us. We are the misusers; we are the greedy ones. If we have no better sense than to purposefully destroy ourselves, it is no wonder that nature punishes us with vile diseases and calls in our maker long before their time. Nature remembers every extra bite of cherry pie, T-bone steak, fried chicken, pizza.