There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.

I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.

Love really makes the world go round, but sex makes love go round.

There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.

Health begets Spirit.

My favorite toy or game has been the ocean. My real passion is for saltwater.

Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.