Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.

Once I learned to swim, I learned that there were waves.

Love really makes the world go round, but sex makes love go round.

There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.

Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. We die when we stop living.

A real man is capable of controlling himself before he controls his children.

The real enemy is not fat but us. We are the misusers; we are the greedy ones. If we have no better sense than to purposefully destroy ourselves, it is no wonder that nature punishes us with vile diseases and calls in our maker long before their time. Nature remembers every extra bite of cherry pie, T-bone steak, fried chicken, pizza.