Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.

Health begets Spirit.

Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.

Once I learned to swim, I learned that there were waves.

There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.

I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.

The real enemy is not fat but us. We are the misusers; we are the greedy ones. If we have no better sense than to purposefully destroy ourselves, it is no wonder that nature punishes us with vile diseases and calls in our maker long before their time. Nature remembers every extra bite of cherry pie, T-bone steak, fried chicken, pizza.