Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.

A real man is capable of controlling himself before he controls his children.

There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.

Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing.

Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.

Love really makes the world go round, but sex makes love go round.

It's easier to die when you have lived than it is to die when you haven't.