There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.
I'm one of the few dumb Jewish doctors.
Love really makes the world go round, but sex makes love go round.
Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.
When I kept surfing, surfing kept me.
The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.