I think it is easy to be a doctor. There are a hell of a lot more doctors than there are guys riding big Pipeline.

My favorite toy or game has been the ocean. My real passion is for saltwater.

The real enemy is not fat but us. We are the misusers; we are the greedy ones. If we have no better sense than to purposefully destroy ourselves, it is no wonder that nature punishes us with vile diseases and calls in our maker long before their time. Nature remembers every extra bite of cherry pie, T-bone steak, fried chicken, pizza.

Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing.

Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.

I think it is easy to be a doctor. There are a hell of a lot more doctors than there are guys riding big Pipeline.

There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.