I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.

A real man is capable of controlling himself before he controls his children.

When I kept surfing, surfing kept me.

I love to be called Doc.

Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.

Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.

Once I learned to swim, I learned that there were waves.