Once I learned to swim, I learned that there were waves.

I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.

When I kept surfing, surfing kept me.

I'm one of the few dumb Jewish doctors.

A real man is capable of controlling himself before he controls his children.

Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.

There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.