Once I learned to swim, I learned that there were waves.

A real man is capable of controlling himself before he controls his children.

I think it is easy to be a doctor. There are a hell of a lot more doctors than there are guys riding big Pipeline.

When I kept surfing, surfing kept me.

Love really makes the world go round, but sex makes love go round.

Once I learned to swim, I learned that there were waves.

Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing.