Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.

The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.

Once I learned to swim, I learned that there were waves.

It's easier to die when you have lived than it is to die when you haven't.

I think it is easy to be a doctor. There are a hell of a lot more doctors than there are guys riding big Pipeline.

Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.

A real man is capable of controlling himself before he controls his children.