In my lifetime, I've met a lot of people who never rode a wave, but we share the same consciousness. Surfing is a kind of a state of mind... I mean, it's a feeling that people have about their life that really, in a way, kind of makes them a surfer.

Well, in regards to surfing, I’ve learned that there is always another wave coming. Translated that means there is always tomorrow. No matter how badly you get caught inside, if you can just hang in there and keep paddling, the set is going to pass and there will be a lull afterwards. So don’t give up, just take your pounding, wait until the set passes, then make your move.

I think I'm getting wealthy in ways that don't count at the bank.

One thing you learn from surfing is how to operate in the present. It's really what the surfing experience is all about.

We don't believe in splitting the experience. We don't believe in taking a row out and putting in motion seats [that shake and move in response to cues from a film]. If you walk into that auditorium you're going to have a communal experience.

There is wisdom in waves. Some surfers see it right away, others never do. To find success in surfing, we must learn to be in harmony with nature. This will bring a sense of peace. By sharing this peace, and contributing to other people's happiness, we can find the true meaning of life. Keep surfing . . .

Everyone gets caught inside when surfing. You have 2 options. Give up or paddle outside. Life is the same. Keep paddling!