When I fly to Chile to surf or go snowboarding in Russia or some other adventure, I try to include the family when I can and go see friends along the way.

All training does is get us back what we lost when we stopped having to hunt down our food. Our bodies are built for it already.

I need a big wave to really excel. The smaller stuff is a bit like...ballet for me.

There needs to be a reason to go, so you go deeper into whatever place you're visiting to find those unforgettable experiences.

Do not be afraid of death. Be afraid of the half-lived life!

Fortunately, I was given an incredible foundation from my independent mother. She showed me what was possible from a strong, loving woman.

When you make a mistake, the ocean gives you an instant reminder. You get punished. If golf clubs could shock you every time you hit the ball wrong, we'd probably learn how to play golf pretty well.