A real man is capable of controlling himself before he controls his children.

Health is survival. But survival with style and class.

Once I learned to swim, I learned that there were waves.

I love to be called Doc.

When I kept surfing, surfing kept me.

I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.

Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing.