Wisdom comes from intent, experience, and finding courage.

Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.

Once I learned to swim, I learned that there were waves.

Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.

Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. We die when we stop living.

The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.

Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing.