Wisdom comes from intent, experience, and finding courage.

My favorite toy or game has been the ocean. My real passion is for saltwater.

Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.

God loves happy people.

I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.

I think it is easy to be a doctor. There are a hell of a lot more doctors than there are guys riding big Pipeline.

The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.