It was a challenge for me to see how I could deal with that at Jil, and I had a lot of doubt about it. I wondered if maybe it was just better to do your own thing in the long run, like an artist.
Raf SimonsI see my position in that whole Dior construction very differently from my own brand. My own brand will stand or fall because of me. Dior won't fall if I fall. It will also still stand if I'm not there. I'm coming in there and it's like a - I don't know the English word - like a passage.
Raf SimonsI'm not an isolated person. The more I connect to people, the more I have the feeling that things work.
Raf SimonsContemporary art for me is a real driver; it propels us into the future. And at the same time, it's what connects us to the past, from a perspective of artistic evolution in which the succession of eras and styles gives meaning to creation.
Raf SimonsI wanted an idea of the future, a new femininity. I wanted you to feel that you wouldn't quite know where these women were coming from and where they were going to.
Raf SimonsIt felt wrong for me to stay totally connected to that very strict way of approaching the heritage - what it can be, what it cannot be. That was also the period where I really thought, "No, let's open it up."
Raf SimonsThe fashion world doesn't know the word stop, so you have to make sure there are sublime moments every day.
Raf SimonsI think it's different in fashion, because even if I would be an outsider, I would still be in the middle of the whole world of contemporary fashion. But it's interesting to think what outsider fashion could be. Does it mean to be completely disconnected from the regular system or just disconnected style-wise?
Raf SimonsI'm shy, but not on a one-to-one basis. Over the years, I have become acclimatised to a bit of publicity.
Raf SimonsRobert Gober, for example. He doesn't seem like somebody who is just going to show in a gallery that asks him to show. He's just making his work, and when he's ready, he's going to show it.
Raf SimonsFashion is such an octopus. You're connected to so many people: suppliers, pattern makers, production teams, marketing teams, vendors.
Raf SimonsI'm usually very attracted to things that I can't define. If something's too clear, it's very often not inspiring to me anymore.
Raf SimonsWhen it's only clothes, that is not satisfying enough for me. I don't think I could do this for 10, 20 years if that was all. It also has to be about a psychology or a mentality or a concept.
Raf SimonsIn fashion, general people will look to the piece itself. [Some designers] concentrate on, 'How can I make this seam look special?' or 'What am I going to do with that button so it looks interesting?' I am not interested in that. At the moment, I am more interested in the shape and the form. I have a big desire to make clothes without defining them.
Raf SimonsI'm very scared sometimes that fashion might attack its own magic by the amount of exposure.
Raf SimonsL.A. interests me, the whole band scene and relaxed carefree feel, but it does not mean you have to dress like a hippy.
Raf SimonsMy whole life, I've always had to be surrounded by creative things. I find it relaxing to be in touch with creations by other people.
Raf SimonsI don't find it difficult anymore, because these days, Raf is only men and Dior is only women. I found it much more complicated when I was doing Jil Sander for men and women. It wasn't that it was the same, but I'm specific about where I want to go, and when you suddenly have to do two men's collections in the same moment, that was more difficult.
Raf SimonsI find it fascinating to see the fact that women want to buy things that they see on men.
Raf SimonsI dont want to show clothes, I want to show my attitude, my past, present and future. I use memories and future visions and try to place them in todays world.
Raf SimonsWell, my own men's collection always felt very free back in the days before Jil. Once you make it this kind of dialogue with other people, with a fashion show and clients and whatever, it becomes something else. Free meets not so free.
Raf SimonsMy ideas for the next collection always happen a couple of months before the show. I have learned to shut up and not bother my assistants with it.
Raf SimonsWhen artists connect to a system because they want to make a living, it's their own choice. In fashion, designers don't have that choice. I know everybody mentions Azzedine Alaรฏa, but he's been going for a long time in the system - showing to people, selling to clients - and I think it's admirable how he's transformed it into his own system in a way, but it's still a system.
Raf SimonsIf I see a fashion show with literal influences, it doesn't make me think any more. It doesn't make me dream.
Raf SimonsThe psychology for the person who's actually doing it is completely different. I think I probably needed to put that [hired-hand] psychology in my own head to be able to do the job. Otherwise it would just be too scary. People outside make it much bigger than me. I'm not saying in my head, "Oh, my god, what an amazing idea!" It scares me if I would do that.
Raf SimonsCamouflage is about much more than concealment and going unnoticed. There's a whole game involved between revealing and hiding.
Raf SimonsI don't see Dior as something that could become mine. I see it as a dialogue with the women who wear it. I want to stay connected to them rather than to an abstract brand.
Raf SimonsMy own show with Sterling Ruby, for example, seems like such a huge disconnection from Dior couture, but then I think, yeah, in both collections there was a very strong focus on the human hand and the actual work of people making garments. So in that sense, they were completely related. But I didn't realize that during the process.
Raf SimonsBoth costume and fashion are about telling a story, except that in a ballet the story has already been written by the composer or the librettist.
Raf SimonsAnd even being in the middle of it, at the LVMH group with Dior, there are certain parts of it that I'm just not really in, because it's not in me or my nature. The whole scene around it, the events, the photography ... It's never really been my thing. But I don't take a critical position on people who are very much about that either.
Raf SimonsI have so much respect for John [Galliano]s technical skill and the fantasy, its just something that I dont find relevant now, especially when it restricts a woman, because in every other area they have so much freedom.
Raf SimonsUnlike fashion, art isn't applied. It doesn't have to serve anybody. It doesn't have to be there for any other reason than to give an impression of what the world is about.
Raf SimonsBecoming a fashion designer is agreeing with the fact that what you experience or what you see as free is also connected to a system. Does that mean giving up your freedom? I still don't know the answer. There's a very different kind of psychology going on in the fashion scene than in art.
Raf SimonsYou do what you do. Or you do what you have to do. I don't know how to explain it better. I think that in the moment, you can't see connections, but sometimes afterwards you do.
Raf SimonsThe future, for me, is romantic, I donโt understand people who say the past is romantic. Romantic, for me, is something you donโt know yet, something you can dream about, something unknown and mystical. That I find fascinating.
Raf SimonsI've always seen myself as a small entity, and it will always stay like that. I'm not changing. But I think the big challenge for me taking on the Dior thing is to see how I can connect that to such a huge institution.
Raf SimonsBut overall I want to make sure people fall in love with the clothes and that they are satisfied
Raf SimonsWe are very excited to re-launch the collaboration with Fred Perry. We have great appreciation for the heritage of the brand as well as their dynamism in guiding the brand towards the future. Their openness to create synergies between both our brands will bring interesting, creative results.
Raf Simons